FinanceCalc

Mortgage Payment Calculator

What the monthly payment really is, what it includes, and what the loan costs in total — with a property-tax rate taken from your own city, town or county rather than a national average. Add taxes, insurance, HOA and PMI and see the full amortization schedule.

Your result
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Adjust the numbers below.

The purchase

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Enter the down payment as

The loan

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yr
Loan type

Taxes, insurance and dues

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US county average.
Set tax rate and home price from your city, town or county — real Census data (3,222 counties, plus each state's cities as you type)
Picking a city or county also sets the home price to that area's median home value, so the numbers start from your market rather than a national average.

The effective rate is median real-estate taxes paid ÷ median home value, for 3,222 counties and 19,465 cities, towns, villages and boroughs, from the U.S. Census Bureau American Community Survey 5-year 2024 estimates (tables B25103 and B25077). There is no statewide rate, because property tax is levied by overlapping local jurisdictions — and where the levy is municipal, the city is the body that bills you: New Jersey's municipal rates run 0.36% to 4.57%, against 1.22% to 2.93% at county level. Type a city and its state and the city file loads then; until you name a state, only the county file is fetched. Where the Census censors its median — anything above $10,000 a year is published as exactly 10,001 — the rate is recomputed from aggregate taxes paid ÷ owner-occupied units in the same release (tables B25090 and B25003), and the line under the rate field tells you which basis you got. Picking a place overwrites the rate and price fields above, both of which you can still edit by hand.

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$
Leave at 0 if there is no association.
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Your own estimate — not a percentage of value, and nothing here projects it forward.
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Left at 0 by default: this is a mortgage payment page, not a whole cost-of-living estimate.
What is inside the payment — every month, part by part
Only the principal-and-interest slice reduces your loan balance.
Principal paid vs interest paid — cumulative
Where the two lines sit relative to each other is the whole story of a mortgage.

What the running costs do over the term

Your principal and interest never move. The taxes, insurance, dues and upkeep around it do. This is the same house held for the full term, with one inflation assumption applied uniformly to every running cost — derived from BLS data, not chosen — shown in today's dollars and in nominal dollars. Where your county's state caps property-tax growth by statute, that cap replaces the inflation rate for the tax line. It changes no payment, no interest figure and no payoff date above.

Show it in

Full amortization schedule

Every row is recomputed from your inputs. Balances come from the closed form used by the payment formula, so the loan clears exactly at the final payment. The Monthly / Annual toggle and the CSV download are part of the table. Each row is displayed to the cent, so adding a column up by hand can come out a few cents over or under the loan amount — that is rounding in the display, not in the schedule.

How this is calculated

Principal and interest is the standard amortizing-loan payment: the level monthly amount that clears the loan exactly over the term, with interest charged each month on the balance still outstanding.

M = P × r ÷ (1 − (1 + r)−n)

With a $320,000 loan at 6.7% over 30 years, M works out to $2,064.89 a month. Summed across the schedule, that repays $320,000 of principal and pays $423,360.23 of interest.

Where the property-tax figure comes from

effective rate = median real-estate taxes paid ÷ median home value
where the Census censors that median: mean taxes paid ÷ median home value

Both inputs are medians from the U.S. Census Bureau's American Community Survey 5-year 2024 estimates: table B25103 for median real-estate taxes paid and table B25077 for median home value. The dataset bundled with this page covers 3,222 counties and 19,465 cities, towns, villages and boroughs, and the national average rate across the counties is 0.90%.

One wrinkle is worth knowing about, because it silently understates the rate in exactly the places with the highest taxes. The Census stops publishing the median at $10,000 a year: every county and town above that line is reported as exactly 10,001, which is a threshold, not a measurement. Pair it with a real median home value and the arithmetic still produces a confident-looking number that is far too low — Bergen County, New Jersey comes out at 1.605% that way. So where the median is censored this page uses the second route to the same quantity from the same release: aggregate real-estate taxes paid divided by owner-occupied units (tables B25090 and B25003). Where both routes are available they agree closely — Camden County is 2.833% by median and 2.901% by mean — and the line under the rate field says which basis you were given.

That rate is applied to the price you enter, as a stand-in for assessed value on day one. It is a starting estimate, not a bill: assessments, exemptions and local levies all move, and most assessors do not use full market value. Your county assessor has the real number.

How mortgage insurance is treated here

Two different products, and the page prices whichever one your loan type carries. Switch Loan type above to Conventional or FHA.

Conventional PMI

FHA annual MIP

What is and is not in the "total of all payments" figure

It is principal, interest, property tax, insurance, HOA dues and mortgage insurance — PMI or FHA MIP, whichever your loan type carries — summed across the term, using today's tax rate, today's insurance premium and today's HOA dues.

Maintenance and utilities are not in it, and deliberately: they are not a mortgage payment. Enter them above and they appear in the separate cost of ownership figure, which is the payment plus those running costs, and in the projection further down the page. Closing costs and the per-diem interest a servicer collects at payoff are not modelled at all.

Interest is carried at full precision internally and rounded only for display. A lender that rounds the payment to the cent and then charges interest on the rounded balance will land a few dollars away from these totals over 30 years — a difference in rounding, not in mathematics. See the note below.

Why your lender's payoff number will differ by a few dollars. Every amortization table, including this one, is a model. Lenders round the monthly payment to the nearest cent, charge interest on the rounded balance each month, and then add per-diem interest from your last payment to the payoff date. Over 360 payments those fractions of a cent compound into a small difference — usually under about $10 by the end of a 30-year loan, and it can run either direction. Plan with this figure; settle with the payoff statement. No calculator, on this page or any other, can tell you the exact last dollar.

What a mortgage payment is really made of

Four or five separate things get bundled into the number you pay each month, and only one of them is the loan. Principal and interest is the mortgage itself. Property tax and homeowners insurance are usually collected by the servicer in an escrow account, then paid on your behalf when the bills come due — which is why the servicer can raise your monthly draw even though your loan payment never moves. HOA dues go to the association, not the lender. PMI is insurance that protects the lender, not you, and it exists only while the loan is more than 80% of the home's value.

That last part matters: when people say "my mortgage is $2,500 a month," most of them are describing an escrowed payment, not a loan payment. On the defaults in this page, the loan is $2,064.89 and the rest — $425.00 — is tax and insurance. Over a year that is $5,100 that never touches the balance.

There is no such thing as a state property tax rate

This is the single biggest thing wrong with how property tax gets presented online. You will find pages listing "the property tax rate in New Jersey: 2.21%" as if it were a number you could look up and multiply. It is not. Property tax is levied by overlapping local jurisdictions — the county, the city or township, the school district, and assorted special districts such as fire, library or water authorities. Each sets its own levy against the same property, and nobody at the state level sets the rate at all. The state figure is just the average of county figures, which is why it describes almost nobody.

The spread inside a single state is the proof. From this page's dataset, the county-level effective rates run:

And a county figure is a proxy, because the county is usually not the government that sends the bill. Inside New Jersey the municipal rates run 0.36% in Avalon to 4.57% in Salem city — while Salem County's own rate is 2.93%, so the city sits 1.6 points above the county that contains it, and Camden city (2.06%) sits below Camden County (2.83%). A county picker cannot tell you that, which is why the search above covers 19,465 municipalities as well as the counties, from 323 in New Jersey to 1,224 in Texas, priced from the same release and loaded one state at a time.

Nationwide the county file runs from effectively zero — Northwest Arctic Borough, Alaska, where the Census mean is $3 a year of property tax and the margin of error is larger than the figure itself — to 3.56% in Menominee County, Wisconsin. The honest working range for places people actually live is roughly 0.3% to 3.6%, more than tenfold. A calculator that hands you one state number is telling you nothing about your house. That is why this page asks for a city or county, draws the rate from the Census figures for that place, prints its name and which level it is next to the figure, and still lets you overwrite the rate by hand.

One more honest caveat: the rate here is medians divided by medians — or the mean where the median is censored — which is the standard way to compare places, not a millage rate on your specific parcel. Special assessments and homestead exemptions in your district can move your real bill by a few hundred dollars a year either way, and a small town's estimate carries a wider sampling error than a large county's. Where that error is over 20%, the line under the rate field says so.

PMI, and exactly when it goes away

Private mortgage insurance is a monthly premium that protects the lender if you default. It is normally required on a conventional loan when the down payment is less than 20% of the price, because the lender's exposure is above 80% loan-to-value. It typically costs 0.3% to 1.5% of the loan per year depending on credit score and down payment; this page uses 0.5%.

Two things people get wrong. First, PMI is not charged at 20% down — a 20% down payment puts the loan at exactly 80% LTV, which is the threshold, and PMI should not appear at all. Second, PMI does not last the full term. It ends when the loan reaches 80% of the home's value, which happens on its own schedule, years earlier than the term ends.

A worked example. $400,000 price, 10% down, so a $360,000 loan at 6.7% fixed for 30 years. The payment is $2,323.00 and PMI adds $150.00 a month — 6.5% on top. The balance falls to 80% of $400,000 after payment 97 — 8 years and 1 month — after which PMI stops. Paid over those 97 months it costs $14,550, and dropping it is worth $150 a month, or $1,800 a year, for the remaining 22 years. Under the Homeowners Protection Act the servicer must terminate PMI automatically once the balance is scheduled to reach 78% of the original value, and you can request cancellation at 80% — so if you reach 80% and the charge is still there, ask, with the appraisal or the payment record in hand.

Extra principal payments move that date closer, for the obvious reason: you are lowering the balance faster. Run the numbers in the extra payment payoff calculator to see how much a few hundred dollars a month pulls the PMI drop-off date forward.

PMI and MIP are not the same thing

Both are mortgage insurance, both protect the lender rather than you, and they are entirely different products. PMI is private mortgage insurance: an insurer prices it from your credit score and down payment, it exists only while a conventional loan is above 80% loan-to-value, and it is a flat charge that ends for good once the balance reaches that line. MIP is the FHA's mortgage insurance premium: the government sets it in a published table, it is charged on every FHA loan regardless of down payment, and it is charged on the declining balance so it gets smaller each month.

The difference that actually costs people money is how long each one lasts. On a conventional loan, PMI ends — at 80% LTV on request, at 78% automatically under the Homeowners Protection Act, and at the midpoint of the term at the latest. On an FHA loan, annual MIP ends after eleven years only if you put at least 10% down. Put 3.5% down, which is the standard FHA loan, and you are above 90% loan-to-value at closing — so the premium runs for all 30 years. Paying extra principal does not remove it, because it is not tied to the balance crossing a threshold. Refinancing into a conventional loan once you have 20% equity is the usual exit.

That is why this page asks for the loan type. A calculator that prices only PMI will tell an FHA buyer their mortgage insurance stops after payment 97 when on their actual loan it never stops.

Why the first years are almost all interest

Interest is charged on the balance you still owe. At the start, that balance is the entire loan, so the interest charge is at its largest and the principal part of the payment is at its smallest. On the defaults here — $320,000 at 6.7% for 30 years — the first payment of $2,064.89 splits into $1,786.67 of interest and $278.22 of principal. Interest is 86.5% of the payment.

Across the whole first year you hand over $24,778.68 and only $3,443.13 of it — 13.9% — reduces the loan. The split improves slowly, because each month's principal payment only slightly reduces the balance that the next month's interest is charged on. Interest and principal do not even become equal on a single payment until payment 237, nearly twenty years in.

That is not a trick or a bad loan; it is what a level payment over a long term has to look like. It does explain two things people find surprising: why selling a house after three years can leave you owing almost what you borrowed, and why an extra payment made early is worth far more than the same amount paid in year twenty. The cumulative chart above shows the two lines and where they meet — and on a 30-year loan at today's rates, they may never meet inside the term at all.

What this page does not know

Frequently asked questions

Do I have to pay PMI if my down payment is under 20%?

Usually yes, on a conventional loan. It is typically about 0.5% of the loan per year, added to the monthly payment. This page charges it only when the down payment is under 20% of the price, and stops it at the payment where the balance first reaches 80% of the price. At exactly 20% down, the answer is no — and this page shows a card saying so rather than hiding it. On an FHA loan the equivalent premium is charged at every down payment, including 20% — see the next question.

What is FHA MIP, and how is it different from PMI?

MIP is the FHA's mortgage insurance premium, and it is a different product from private mortgage insurance. It has two parts: an upfront premium of 1.75% of the base loan amount, usually added to the loan, and an annual premium charged monthly on the declining balance. The rate is not negotiated — HUD publishes it in a table (Handbook 4000.1, Appendix 1.0) indexed by loan size, loan-to-value and term, and it currently runs from 0.15% to 0.75% a year.

The part that surprises people is the duration. At or below 90% loan-to-value the premium stops after 11 years. Above 90% — a 3.5% down payment is 96.5% loan-to-value — it is charged for the entire term, and extra principal payments do not remove it. So an FHA borrower who puts the minimum down pays mortgage insurance in every one of the 360 payments, where an identical conventional borrower with 10% down pays PMI for about eight years.

Why isn't there a state property tax rate?

Because property tax is levied by overlapping local jurisdictions — county, city or township, school district, and special districts — not by the state. Each sets its own levy, so the rate that applies to you is set at your address. A state rate is nothing but the average of its counties, and the spread inside a state is usually wider than the spread between states: 1.22% to 2.93% in New Jersey, 0.41% to 2.03% in Texas. Step down one more level, to the municipality that actually bills you, and it widens again — New Jersey's city and township rates run 0.36% to 4.57%, and Salem city sits 1.6 points above the county of the same name.

Why does almost all of my early payment go to interest?

Interest is charged on the outstanding balance, and early on that balance is the whole loan. On $320,000 at 6.7%, the first payment is $1,786.67 of interest against $278.22 of principal — 86.5% interest. The split does not reach 50/50 on a single payment until payment 237. Only the principal part reduces what you owe.

Will my payment really stay the same for 30 years?

The principal-and-interest part will, on a fixed-rate loan. The escrowed parts will not. Property tax and insurance are usually collected monthly and re-estimated every year, and both tend to rise, so the amount withdrawn from your account typically climbs while the loan payment stays put. HOA dues change too.

Why is my lender's payoff figure a few dollars different from this one?

Lenders round the payment to the cent and charge interest on the rounded balance; this page keeps full precision and rounds for display. Over 360 payments that is a few dollars either way. A payoff statement also includes per-diem interest up to the payoff date, which a monthly schedule cannot show. Use this as accurate to within a few dollars.

Does the tax rate apply to my purchase price forever?

No. The effective rate is applied to the price here as a day-one proxy for assessed value. Assessments change, many jurisdictions assess below market value, exemptions vary by county and by owner, and levies are reset every year. Check the assessor for the municipality that bills you for the figure that will actually be charged.

Is a 15-year mortgage always the cheaper choice?

Cheaper in total interest, always, because you borrow for half as long and usually at a lower rate. Whether it is the better choice depends on the payment: $320,000 at 6.0% over 15 years is $2,700.34 a month against $2,064.89 — about $635 more, every month, for 15 years. If that fits comfortably, the interest saved is large. If it does not, take the 30-year and make extra principal payments when you can, then compare the two in the extra payment payoff calculator.

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